Last Stop Livingstone

All smiles even in dry season at The Smoke That Thunders, Mosi-oa-Tunya (Victoria Falls)

It feels like I have been saying goodbye to Zambia for weeks. The process of saying goodbye made me realize just how spread out my connections to Zambia have become. I say goodbye in Mansa only to have to do it all over again in Lusaka. And then, somehow, I am still making phone calls to say farewell here in Livingstone.

I’ll say something more about goodbyes in another post, but before that I will dedicate one last tribute to Livingstone. It is probably the most well known city in Zambia—Lusaka, you make a great second. And it is famous for good reason.

Moso-oa-Tunya (Victoria Falls) during dry season, August 2017

Livingstone is the proud home to Mosi-oa-Tunya (Victoria Falls) or “The Smoke that Thunders.” In 1989 this waterfall, “the largest curtain of falling water in the world,” was accepted as an UNESCO World Heritage Site. On top of that it is also considered one of the 7 Wonders of the Natural World—a fact I wasn’t privy to until I actually visited. And after just one moment standing in the midst of the most thunderous smoke imaginable I instantly knew why it is a Wonder of the Natural World.

It was astounding. And rightly named. I walked inside a cloud and could here almost nothing but the all powerful crashing water on the rocks almost 100m below. It was absolutely stupendous. Like nothing I have ever experienced before. I couldn’t stop laughing from the sheer joy I felt experiencing it. I could barely even see the actual Falls, but oh how I could feel them. Not 15 minutes in and my jeans were drenched despite my two layered raincoats!

Mosi-ao-Tunya Falls also known as Victoria Falls in Livingstone, Zambia

I’d never experienced water with so much fiery passion. The ocean has undoubtedly taken my breath away, but the Falls demanded I make a joyous noise to harmonize with its thunderous roar.

That was my first experience, during rainy season. And now I’ve come during dry season. A whole different story. If I hadn’t seen it with my own eyes, I don’t think I would have believed the difference. The Falls have all but dried up into a desolate rock wall. The scene before me this time was a true testament to seasons. What was once an unstoppable force of life has dried up to reveal it’s skeletal frame. Yet still, it is breathtaking.

Where I once could only see a blur of misty white, I now can see the intricate and splendid rocks of slate, charcoal with a touch of mossy green—a testament of the life force that once washed over these dry bones. The trillions of gallons of water were gone, but the fingerprints of life were everywhere. I found it a beautiful metaphor for the seasons of life.

Seasons of Life

There are times in life that everything flows. Life is running full force and you are swept away into the passion of it all. But nature gently reminds us of the importance of seasons. There are cycles. And for all the flowing fury, there must come an equal and balancing season of dry. But that’s the part that I find more challenging to find beauty in while it’s happening.

Scenic view of Mosi-oa-Tunya (Victoria Falls) during dry season, August 2017

I was reminded of this as some of the people who had come to the Falls said they were somewhat disappointed. They expressed how they wished they could have come in rainy season. That got me thinking. How do we find beauty and contentment in all the seasons?

Dry Season in Zambia Restored My Soul

Most of the year I spent in Zambia felt like a dry season. It wasn’t until the end and after all the goodbyes, that I started to appreciate the beauty of that season. It seems fitting that my last stop, Mosi-oa-Tunya in Livingstone should also be so dry. In case I were tempted to forget, nature has been kind enough to remind me.

Dry season and nature reveals her bones

There is beauty in the dry season. You finally get a clear look at the foundation. The universe blesses you with an opportunity to examine how life shapes and molds you. The gorges, hidden cracks and the crannies reveal themselves. And you can finally see the depths below. You might even find you fear how deep the bottom truly is.

Livingstone is where I end my stay in Zambia. I am leaving with a full heart and a new perspective. Thank you for showing me both the passionate fury of life when waters flow, and the depths to discover in the dryness.

What season are you in? Leave a comment, share a quote and stay connected. No matter what the season, let the adventures continue!